How to paint things.
A great collection of articles, all about how to paint things.
When we say things, we mean anything. This page will slowly be updated with everything you need to know about how to paint, so sit back, grab a coffee or whatever, and enjoy!
....and if you want to submit your own article related to paint, please email us at info@neverpaintagain.co.uk, or use to contact page, the link being at the top of this page.
How to select paint, stain and varnish
What's the easiest way to update a room? Paint! How do you protect wood against the elements (or your child)? Stain or varnish! If you're drowning in a sea of options at the paint store, your enthusiasm may wane. Relax. Your ideal finish starts here.
Steps:
1. Choose acrylic latex formulas for wet conditions or climates. These adhere better and resist peeling and mildew. Latex (waterbase) paint ($12 to $30 per gallon) resists cracking and yellowing, emits less odor and dries quickly--and lets you clean up tools with water. Alkyd (oil-base) paints ($20 to $30 per gallon) can cover in one coat and adhere to difficult surfaces. Because alkyd paints dry slowly, brush strokes level out.
2. Decide how much sheen you want.
Flat paint minimizes irregularities, but its dull finish can trap dirt. Satin or eggshell finishes resist dirt and stains on high-contact walls. Paint kitchens, bathrooms and trim with semigloss to repel dirt and mildew. Once sold only as alkyd, hard-gloss finishes now also come in latex.
3. Use water- or oil-base enamel to paint and protect wood in one step.
Enamel hides blemishes and its durable surface wipes clean, making it a popular choice for bathrooms, kitchens and moldings. Spray enamel is handy for irregular surfaces.
4. Buy exterior paints ($20 to $25 per gallon), which are blended for color retention, mildew resistance and flexibility during temperature changes.
It stays glossy and resists chalking, cracking and peeling. Acrylic latex paints absorb less water and minimize mildew growth. Oil-base paints offer one-coat covering and better durability if you're painting in temperatures below 50 degrees F (10 C). Every major manufacturer has several sheens and formulas, and good-better-best lines.
5. Follow sheen guidelines for exterior paints.
Flat finishes hide imperfections on older wood siding. Use semigloss paint for trim or for smooth aluminum or vinyl siding. Satin and semigloss boost washability and stain resistance.
6. Highlight wood grain or harmonize different varieties of wood with either stock or custom-mixed stain ($5 to $10 per quart).
Penetrating oil stains sink into pores, sealing and slightly darkening wood. Pigmented oil or wiping stains are easier to control. Powder-in-water stains clean up easily but can raise wood grain.
7. Stain wood siding for long-lasting coverage that breathes, which prevents blistering, cracking, or peeling.
Solid stains cover like paint but let texture show through. Semitransparent stains impart subtle color without hiding grain. (Both run $8 to $19 per gallon.)
8. Protect high-traffic areas from scratches and spills with polyurethane varnish.
Solvent-base varnish ($20-plus per gallon) contains more solids than water-base does, so it requires fewer coats--but as it slowly dries, it generates fumes and traps dust specks. Water-base varnishes ($30-plus per gallon) contain fewer irritating chemicals, are less affected by UV light and dry in under 2 hours--versus 5 hours to overnight.
9. Buy a high-quality paintbrush to make the job go faster and smoother.
Premium brushes have hardwood handles and flagged or split-bristle tips that hold more paint. Use natural-bristle brushes with oil-base paints; they absorb the water in latex paints and become limp. Nylon or polyester brushes are better for water-base paints. Buy a 3- to 4-inch-wide (7.5 to 10 cm) wall brush for broad, flat surfaces; a 3-inch (7.5 cm), straight-edge trim brush for doors, wainscoting, and window frames; an angled-bristle sash brush for edging and painting windows. Single-use foam applicators are fine for touch-ups but deteriorate during big jobs.
Overall paint tips:
More expensive paint contains more of the pigments and binders that help the paint flow better, are easier to apply, hide better, and produce uniform color and sheen. Top-quality paint can last twice as long. Because of all this, your overall project cost is less if you buy better quality paint.
Seal wood knots and block stains with a layer of primer so they don't bleed through the finish. Latex primers ($12 to $13 per gallon) dry quickly and clean up with soap and water. Alkyd primers are good on raw wood, but require paint thinner for cleanup and may take overnight to dry.
Tint primer to match finish coat for better coverage.
New for interiors: chalkboard paint, faux-finishing glazes and low-odor paint. New for exteriors: UV-resistant dark colors and formulas that can be applied down to 35 degrees F (2 C).
Buy top-quality paint for smoother flow, better coverage and up to twice the durability. Over time you'll save money and labor.
Overall Warnings:
Wear a respirator with organic filter cartridges ($20 to $40) while applying varnish.
What to look for:
Water- or oil-base paint
Suitable sheens
Easy-clean enamel
Durable exterior formulas
Even-tone stains
Protective varnishes
Appropriate primer
How to Paint Wood Furniture
Painting furniture involves sanding, priming and painting. Have the patience to apply that second coat of paint, and you¿ll be rewarded with a better-looking, longer-lasting finish.
Steps:
1. Make sure there's no chance that your piece of furniture is an antique whose value could be destroyed by changing the finish.
2. Set up your work area in a well-ventilated place with nothing around that could produce flames or sparks.
3. Remove drawer pulls and other hardware. Place the furniture on a layer of newspaper or a disposable drop cloth.
4. Sand the piece of furniture until smooth with fine-grit sandpaper or liquid sander. Wear gloves, safety goggles and a dust mask.
5. Remove any residual sawdust with a hand vacuum, brush or barely damp rag - you don't want to wet the wood.
6. Apply a coat of either white brush-on or gray spray-on water-based primer, depending on the size and area of the piece of furniture you intend to cover.
7. Allow the primer to become dry to the touch; this usually takes 1 to 2 hours. If you're not sure, read the recommended drying time on your can of primer.
8. If the primer coat looks spotty or thin, apply a second coat and allow it to dry.
9. Sand any rough areas.
10. Add a coat of water-based paint. Brush it on with even strokes, going in the direction of the wood grain. With spray paint, make slow passes with the can 8 to 12 inches from the wood surface. Allow the first coat to dry.
11. Add a second coat and allow it to dry overnight.
Tips:
Wash paintbrushes well immediately after use. Rinse under fast-running water until the water runs clear from the bristles.
When using spray paint, cover a wide area with newspaper to protect adjacent surfaces.
Warnings:
Always work in a well-ventilated area.
For better coverage of your primer tint it with some of your final coat paint.
Tinted primer does not bleed through your paint like white primer will.
Using an oil-based primer on pine. One such as Gripper from Glidden will not allow knots to show and bleed through. This dries quickly and is ready to paint over in 25 minutes.
How to paint wood cabinets
Many days I stared at my scratched, varnished cabinets. My cabinets were wood and structurally sound, but worn. I longed for white, clean looking cabinets, but I didn’t have the money to invest in new cabinets, and didn’t know how long we would be living in that house. Who wants to spend a bundle of money on something which you can’t get a good return? So I studied the options...
1. New cabinets
2. New doors (probably wouldn’t match)
3. Remove the doors
4. Living with it
5. Re-varnishing
6. Painting
These were the only ones I could come up with at the time. I decided to paint. Here is how I did it: this took me two weeks, while working part-time every day at my children’s school. It isn’t difficult, just messy.
I will assume in the following that you have paint-able cabinets. Remember to ventilate by opening doors and windows. This is not for people with breathing problems, or pregnant women.
· Take a picture of the “before” cabinets.
· Go to your home product store. Talk to a live person with some experience. Tell them about your cabinets and what you wish to do.
· Pick up a product called TSP. It is a chemical to clean the varnished wood. Grab some rubber gloves while you are at it. Other supplies you will need are: primer, paint, brushes, roller, roller paint pan, extra roller pads, sand paper (course and fine), screwdriver for removing handles, and a paint drop cloth.
· For paint, I picked an off-white made for trim and baseboards. This paint had acrylic in it and was water based so it washed up easily. I am not endorsing brands, but don’t skimp on this step. I used Dutch Boy Trim Paint.
· When home I put on the gloves, mixed the TSP as the container instructed, and washed the surface of all the cabinets. This isn’t the hardest part!
· Remove all cabinet doors, handles, and hinges. Place these where you won’t lose them, even if you are replacing you need them to locate some that will fit.
· Place doors where you have plenty of space, preferably outside on sawhorses or something similar.
· Sand all surfaces lightly. You should coarsely sand any imperfections, then finely sand.
· Decide if you want to paint the insides of your cabinets. I did some of mine and it does look better.
· Prime all surfaces to be painted. This is the messy part. Primer drips, so cover your good floors and counters. I used a roller for most areas. Grooves and small spaces required the brush. Either clean the brush and roller, or you can replace the pads and brush.
· At this point, the cabinets look horrible and you’re thinking, “What did I get myself into?”
· Put on the first coat of paint. You should start to see an improvement now.
· Put on the second coat of paint. Look for areas that need a touch-up. They are there. Look for them.
· Allow to cure (harden), before replacing dishes. Paint needs time to set so it will harden. The can should have these instructions: if not wait a day.
· Take a picture and let everyone back into the kitchen.
· Keep an amount of paint for touch-ups. Accidents and dents happen, even on new cabinets.
Bathroom decorating tips
Some great bathrooms decorating tips on how to add some color and personalization to any bathroom that needs a little revamping.
When the bathroom needs a little colour, a little privacy or a little revamping here is a couple of neat ways to give it a makeover.
Shower curtain
You can make a cloth outer shower curtain really easy. Measure from the top of the shower to the bottom. Then, select the material you want to use (don’t forget to wash all cloth before you sew it). When you go to the store to buy the materials measure out the length you need times two for two panels plus approximately 20 inches for the top.
(Example: Shower measures 7 feet in height, you need 14’20" of material. 14 feet for two panels and 10 additional inches for each panel to go over the rod.)
The width of the material is normally a good size so that you don’t need to measure it out. For tiebacks use a thick cording found in a craft store and a small plant hook.
After the material is washed and dryed double it over length wise and cut so that you have two equal panels in length. Double over the top of the panel of each so that it just goes over the curtain rod and sew. Unless there is a manufacturers name running down the side of the material you may not need to sew it lengthwise.
Try the curtain on the rod and decide where you should pin it along the bottom for sewing. You should do this for both curtain panels Once the top and bottom (and possible the sides) of the curtain are done hang them up on the outer shower curtain rod and enjoy.
Plastic shelving unit that goes over the back of the toilet.
If you have a shelving unit that goes over the back of the toilet you can easily make cloth panels to cover each shelf and hide your personal hygiene products.
Measure the length from the top to the bottom of each shelf and the width. Do the sides separately from the front of the shelving. You are going to want three panels for each shelf; one for each side and one for the front. Add one inch to each length and width for the seam.
Select a durable cotton/polyester blend material that matches your decor. Also buy enough velcro to go around the entire length of each shelf. If you have two shelves at 60" total each then you will need 120" of velcro. Get the velcro with the sticky backing.
Cut out each of your panels and hem all four sides. Place one side of the velcro along the top edge of the shelving going from one side to the other. Use the other side of the velcro on the top of each panel. You may need to sew it in place to reinforce it. Once the velcro is attached it should hook on the shelf and cover up your belongings. Do this for all three panels on each shelf. To use simply lift of remove the panels if you need anything off your shelf.
To add colour
To add color to any bathroom try this, unscrew any wall plates, toilet paper holders (if plastic or cheaply made) and so forth and spray paint them. Select a color brings out a particular color in your bathroom. For example if you have a America theme (flags and so forth) you may want to paint the covering red, white, or blue, or do all three. Add a coat of clear paint over each piece to prevent chipping the paint. Then when the pieces are dry put them back in place and look at how much color is added to the room.
Wallpapering tips made easy
Wallpapering tips for the novice; including measurements, types, and patterns.
While many people like the look of wallpaper, the idea of hanging it scares them away. Believe it or not, it isn't as difficult as it looks. The trick is choosing the right type, pattern and texture and the right tools. Actually, the only tools you should need are a wallpaper roller, a sponge and, if you are papering an entire wall, a ladder.
If you are a novice hanger, your best bet is to choose a relatively basic pattern, one that will be easy to "match". If you choose something simple like stripes that actually don't have to be matched, the job will be quick and the paper waste will be nominal. Once you get into more intricate patterns of wallpaper, like flowers or rainbows, each piece has to be matched precisely with the previously-hung piece. This can lead to frustration, discarded paper or worse, an extremely mismatched wall, so for your first attempt at paperhanging – keep it simple.
Another good idea for first-timers is to start with a simple border.
Borders come in a variety of patterns and textures and can add a whole new look to any room. If you choose a border to hang at the top of your walls, make sure you have someone to help you. Set up two step ladders approximately six feet apart. Start the border at one corner, smooth it down as far as you can reach, then let your helper smooth the border area as far as he can reach. Once your border area is secure, move your ladder six feet from your helper and take over from his secured border area.
Keep moving the ladder positions until the entire roll is in place. If you would rather place a border midway up the wall, be very careful to measure around the entire room. While we assume our walls are straight, many times they are not. Be sure to measure from the floorboard up to the position you want to hang the border and use a chalk line or a ruler and pencil to mark the position of the border. Once you've done your measurements, make sure that you place the border exactly on the position of the chalk line.
There are many varieties of wallpaper but without a doubt, the easiest to work with is the prepasted variety. Prepasted paper merely needs to be dipped in a bucket of water, or for larger sections of wallpaper you can dip it in a bathtub or lay it out on a table and wet sponge it. Prepasted paper goes on easily and only needs to be sponged into place. If the wallpaper has "air bubbles" once it's on the wall, use a wallpaper roller to "iron" out the bubble.
If you don't have a roller, use a rolling pin. Wallpaper also comes in a variety of textures from textured paper to coated vinyl. Vinyl is relatively easy to work with and is ideal for the first time hanger.
Knowing how much paper you will need can be a little tricky. That's why it's a good idea to purchase your paper from a reputable merchant who will take the time to help answer any questions you may have. A good rule of thumb if you are papering an entire room is to multiply the height times the width of each wall and add them together.
This will give you your total square footage. If your room has many doorways or large windows, you can deduct from your total, but if this is your first time, it's probably better not to as the waste will be minimal. Give your square foot measurements to your vendor and let him figure out just how much paper you will need. It's better to order too much than not enough as any unopened rolls can be returned.
I guarantee that if you start with something simple, you'll be so pleased with your paperhanging abilities that you'll begin a total makeover of your entire home.
Happy decorating!
The above info was sourced from various sites within the public domain